In a simple dryer like this one, the only two things it could likely be are the heating element (~$50) or the thermostat limit control (~$17). Fortunately for me it was the thermostat.
This is one of the easiest home repairs that I have ever done. Aside from the fact that you will need a multimeter and some muscle to slide the dryer out so that you can get at the back panel, it is a very simple DIY task that can save you alot of money.
Tools:
Digital Multimeter
Screwdrivers
Socket Driver 1/4" with 1/4" socket (My dryer had these for all screws)
Vacuum Cleaner (For all the lint, dust, and dead bugs that have built up behind and underneath the dryer)
Remove the rear panel (9 screws on my unit) and carefully pull it back down the vent tube so that you don't kink it or puncture it,
The thermostat and heating element are located at the bottom of the heat duct at the bottom right of the dryer when facing the rear panel. Here I have already removed the three terminals from the thermostat and the heat element housing.
Here I am using my multimeter to check the continuity of the thermostat. (This picture was taken after the replacement so the multimeter is showing that it is good.) Set the multimeter to the lowest Ohms scale (200 ohms in my case). If the multimeter reads a small resistance as shown below, then it is still good. You can test both the thermostat and heating element for continuity without removing them, but you will likely need to remove the heating element to remove the thermostat from the side of it.
Testing for continuity just means that you are checking to see if the electrical component allows electrical current to flow through it freely from terminal through the device and out the other with a minimum of resistance. The multimeter sends a small current and voltage through the leads to test for a voltage drop and thereby the resistance. Simply place the multimeter leads across the terminals of the component as shown here.
Here you can see that this was the original thermostat and my multimeter is measuring "infinite" resistance by showing a 1 in the far left. This indicates that the component is an open circuit and is not allowing current to pass through it. This was the failed $17 thermostat limit control in my dryer.
To remove the heating element and thermostat, remove the screws and pull down. There were two screws on my unit, one on the left side and one on the right.
Remove the thermostat from the heating element. You may need a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the female thermostat terminal off of the male heating element terminal.
Next I am checking the continuity of the heating element.
Install the new thermostat into the heating element housing and put it all back together.
There is really no need to mark the wires inside the dryer for this repair because the terminals are all different sizes so there is no way confuse which one goes where during reassembly.
